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FROM BARILOCHE TO PUERTO MONTT (CHILE) - CRUCE DE LOS LAGOS The Chilean company Cruceandino offers one-day and two-day tours which are combined bus and boat trips covering three lakes. The journey is certainly very attractive, especially the sight of the three volanoes Tronador, Puntiagudo and Osorno. Sharply at New Year of 2009 the company had raised prices immensely, for example from USD 170.00 to USD 230.00 for the day trip. So it is not really a low-budget adventure. Moreover, the stopover at the border crossing at Peulla – where lunch can be purchased in some hotel restaurants – seemed to be a little bit lengthy. For some people the three hours were nerve-racking, because they did not dare to leave the hotels. Once outside, masses of giant 3 cm horse flies were awaiting us human beings, and then they were attacking us in a dozen at every turn. There are certainly direct buses running, but then you will miss out on photo stops. Those who are cycling only need to purchase tickets for the three lake crossings. The time that needs to be spent on the road does not create a problem, there is sufficient time to be at the next jetty before the boat leaves. It was a terrific moment when towards the end of the journey on Lago Todos Los Santos the boat made a turn to the left and all of a sudden the picture-book volcano Osorno came into view in the back light. Once on the bus for a last time, a further stop at the Petrohue falls was arranged, and offered splendid views of the volcano once again. The weather I experienced during this trip could have been better. On the first three days thick clouds covered the sky, there was some rain now and then, and the wind was sometimes quite nasty. I record that once it rose from 10 to 80 knots ( 1 kn = 1,852 km) within 5 minutes, and within another 10 minutes it was down to 40 knots. But those who have good sea legs and are weatherproof will have as much fun as I had, as well as some of my co-travelers. Thick covering clouds can at times definitely be nearly as photogenic as blue sky. And the somewhat higher waves during the 12 hours open ocean crossing was fun as well, although not everybody in my cabin thought the same. By all means the days on the sea were never boring. People were coming together, an entertainment and information program was offered, and there were excursions to the only village in the southern region – Puerto Eden -, and to the glacier Pius XI, the biggest in South America. Its glacier tongue reaches into Eyre bay, with a width of 6 km and up to 100 m high. It is tempting to become decadent, having a Pisco Sour or Whisky with glacier ice. Anyway, I would not hesitate to do this triop again; for a change with a lot of sunshine!
Extensive trekking in the Torres del Paine national park will be reserved for the next time in this area. Therefore, I returned to Argentina right away, chose El Calafate as a base and visited the glacier Perito Moreno at Lago Argentino, which is very popular because of constant ice cracking. Everyday it moves up to 2 m forward in its centre. The most impressing however, is to be present when the “ruptura” takes place. It happened every few years in the past but lately has happened in shorter time intervals. Is the glacier moving faster as a result of the global warming? At the moment it is assumed that this glacier – in contrary to most others – is growing. When it moves it periodically closes the gap between its front and peninsula Magallanes. With this, it cuts off the branch Brazo Rico from Lago Argentino. On the branch’s side the water level rises, the pressure on the ice increases. The dam erodes little by little, until the remaining tunnel collapses under immense roar and mighty fountains.
Stand: 14.03.09 |