ARGENTINA 2009

El Chaltén is the starting point for excursions towards Fitz Roy (3406 m) and Cerro Torre (3102 m) in the national park Los Glaciares. Those who only come to see these two terrific mountains and their minor peaks, can do everything on daily excursions and return to El Chaltén. There are also opportunities to stay on camp grounds, often in beautiful environments.

Newcomers who arrive by bus are first briefed at the park administration office about the behavioural rules in the national park, which is really a good idea. As a result there is barely any rubbish on the trails and camp grounds. Since the sky was absolutely clear, we were advised to hike to Loma del Pliegue right away, a 1490 m high hill for panoramic views. Perfect views of the mountains, down into the valley of Rio de las Vueltas and El Chaltén, and further onto Viedma lake were guaranteed. So what is a 1000 m ascent if rewarded with such views? In front Cerro Torre with its glacier lake Laguna Torre, aside Fitz Roy and roundabout a fantastic panorama. A few others and myself stayed for two hours. After the invasive horse flies (a patagonian problem) had disappeared later in the afternoon, this scenic pleasure became unbeatable.

Another beautiful day was forecasted. Therefore, a few people took the bus towards Hosteria El Pilar at the confluence of Rioe Electrico and Rio Blanco in order to hike along the Fitz Roy massif back to El Chaltén. The trail offers a few side trips to Laguna Piedras Blancas, Laguna de los Tres, and Laguna Sucia. The most popular of those three glacier lakes is definitely Laguna de los Tres, which is reached after a steep climb. In addition, I also visited Laguna Sucia and only met two more people there. In my opinion it offers the most rewarding view of Fitz Roy, since there is a glacier right below the peaks, supplying the lake with melt water through several waterfalls. Attention needs to be paid, because alongside Rio Blanco is a big scree area which must be traversed, with big rocks hanging loose above it. The ideal place to enjoy the lightish evening hours is Laguna Capri with its lovely shores and beaches, with Fitz Roy always in view.

In the morning of the third day clouds already kept the peaks hidden, it became windier, but the weather was still fairly stable. I went to Laguna Torre in order to get closer to Cerro Torre, hoping to catch another sight of its peak. I walked past the lake on its right hand bluff, arrived at Mirador Maestri, and had a nice view of the glacier, with groups of hikers on it. The Cerro however, remained covered in clouds. Afterwards, I took the trail to the lakes Laguna Hija and Laguna Madre, where I made my first experience with the infamous Patagonian weather. Rain was driven horizontally towards me by strong winds, which made the long way back to El Chaltén a strenuous endeavour. On the last day I only undertook short walks. All in all I had been lucky with the weather. A bottle of red wine and a plate of Picadas (sausage/cheese/olives) helped me to while away the time by watching the sky getting darker and darker.

I experienced a positive change in weather when I spent the last week in Uruguay – Colonia del Sacramento and Montevideo – before I flew back home from Buenos Aires. I was almost lucky to witness the beginning of carnival in Colonia, if there had not been another thunder-storm to mess up the works. Unfortunately, the parade as a result was canceled and rescheduled a week later. Only a small group of drummers and female dancers were holding up a cheerful atmosphere on the street for another hour. They gave me a good impression how hilarious it would have been.